robinsnest: (Tintype)
I got my stays to the point of trying them on and I have to say it's...an odd look. Yeah my boobs are flying northward so I'm guessing that's all good. But it feels like it pushes my stomach pooch forward instead of backwards. and they wrinkle like the devil due to the lack of solid boning. I know all wrinkles are period but it's weird.

I just need to make the straps about 6" longer (apparently going over my boobs takes more inches than I took into account) and then bind them and they're done.

Good thing too cause if I don't start this dress ASAP I'll be making someone else sew in the car (or drive and I sew). 
robinsnest: (Tintype)
I'm avoiding working on pondering things about my stays. 

1. Cording vs boning on the back edges. I know cording is period and all but as an apple shaped girl if I don't have something to keep it straight sometimes my rolls eat things so to speak. It'll just get all bunched in at the waist. So I was thinking about boning those edges. 

2. Eyelets, hand sewn or metal. I know handsewn is period but frankly I have very limited faith that these are even going to fit. Yeah a did a muslin...but without being really finished it's so hard to tell. The bust gores LOOK to small when I hold them up to myself, but they don't go as high as a bra, are meant to push up, and holding them up over a fleece, a sweatshirt and a modern bra probably isn't helping me. 

3. A busk. Paint stir stick or wooden ruler? Wish I had something in the house that didn't require a trip to go get. 
robinsnest: (Tintype)
I have a stays mock-up! I started wit [livejournal.com profile] koshka_the_cat's lovely pattern on her website and enlarged it to make it more rotund girl sized. Then I had to move around my bust gores as my first eyeballing made them too wide...and they're only about 1" wide but that still looks TOO big up top. I do so hate making stays because it's hard to have a good idea what they're REALLY going to behave like with with stiff fabric and a busk etc etc. And it's practically impossible to fit them on me so I have to do it on my dressform which has boobs in a totally different place...so while it gapes like the dickens now perhaps I'll NEED more than 1" in gores later. 

*sigh* I don't mind sewing when it's things that don't have to fit. But dammit I hate fitting! 
robinsnest: (Default)
When will the day come when I'm actually 100% happy with something I make and WANT to share it? *sigh* 



Anyway the stays are finished with the exception of some eyelets to tie the straps...and about those straps...they're WAY WAY too short. I lengthened them from the pattern but I confess I didn't really fit them, and they're midget straps. So debating between having ribbon ties covering the gap and connecting them or just cutting them off. The bag in the gap is way bigger than it was supposed to be, correction at the BOTTOM the gap is huge at the top it's non-existent. Not 100% sure what to do about that, besides know to add more to the waist for the next time. Unfortunately when I gain weight I just turn into a sausage with no curves. 

But in more positive news I did fit the lining for the gown and that actually fit like a dream. I confess I cheated and used the lining from the RH Francaise pattern that I happen to have on hand from the unfinished teal sack. I was very pleasantly surprised by how easily I walked into the pattern size, that never happens to me. I need to make the armscyes larger, but I do that to every pattern, I must have big sausages or something. 



I'm lining it in some scrap linen I've had for who knows how long. Somehow I had a pile of 12" wide pieces with a selvage edge. Don't ask me, I've long forgotten. Anyway it was either piece the linen for a lining or find the buried bolt of cotton...hey piecing is period! so ignore the funny side seam.



Now here's a question for you people. The lining sits perfectly along my corset line...but I usually wear corset THEN petticoats which would create a lump wouldn't it? what order do YOU dress in?

owie

Nov. 29th, 2011 04:17 pm
robinsnest: (Default)
feeling...sluggish. I had a doctor's appointment this morning, and I stopped for a quick hamburger on the way home...bad idea. Stress + IBS + McDonalds = no productivity today. So far all I've gotten done is cutting the bones for both backs and half of the left front. I had to walk away partially to lay in the fetal position and partially because cutting those fuckers is HARD and was really starting to hurt. 

So now I'm on the couch with a copy of PoF planning how to make this gown. Part of me thinks it's inane to think I can make a gown and finish these stays by Saturday...but I have four full days...I used to make whole gowns in ONE. If I can just get myself FOCUSED. The goal for tomorrow is to have the gown cut out, all the boning in and either the binding started or the back pleated. I can use my old stays for fittings and an emergency back up. They're too small but I could always lace them more open or make a quick stomacher if I got desperate...

Someone give me a pep talk please.
robinsnest: (Default)


That was a lot of eyelets )
Now I'm off to find some advil...
robinsnest: (Default)
Rob and I officially kicked off the Christmas season today. We went and saw the new Muppets movie (HIGHLY recommended) and drove around listening to carols on our way to buy our tree. The tree's currently outside on the porch waiting till after dinner to be decorated. 

When we got home Rob crashed into a nap and I worked a bit on my stays. I got all the boning channels sewn, and let me tell you people with an OCD urge for symmetrical things to be perfect shouldn't try to do boning channels! 

Now I have two dilemmas, well one question and one dilemma. 

1. I wanted this to be a fully stash project, I'm unemployed and it's Christmas. I intended to bone with heavy duty cable ties, but I only have a few left, definitely not enough to do the whole thing. I do have some plastic boning that's been hanging around for years, wondering how bad it would be if I use the duct ties on the important points, like the CF and the long diagonal, and filled in the rest with the lightweight boning. My instinct is it's a bad idea, but I REALLY didn't want to spend money on this project, even though a pack of duct ties isn't expensive, it's the principle.

2. The Deiderot pattern calls for little perpendicular pieces of boning in the tabs, I've only ever continued the bones into the tabs and I have them positioned so one bone ends in every tab. Are they necessary? 
robinsnest: (Default)
For the first year ever Rob and I didn't go anywhere for Thanksgiving this year. We laid low, and counted pennies to get us a thanksgiving feast. I was very careful with the budgeting, was super proud of myself for doing the whole thing for under $35.00. It helped that we ate with several friends so I didn't have to provide the whole meal. But I got a nice big turkey, make a double batch of stuffing, gravy, pumpkin pie with homemade whipped cream and make a new nice centerpiece. That was a pretty big accomplishment for me! I made a big chart and compared all the prices for the ingredients I would need, hey I know time is money but I have the time and not the money! 

It all went relatively smoothly, as smooth as it was apt to go in my closet of a kitchen. Rob's brother joined us as well as Alice and we actually ate in my upstairs neighbors apt. It was a lovely meal with friend, and while a job isn't on the list I have a lot to be thankful for this year and stopping to remember is a GOOD THING. It's easy to get lost in the unemployed-my-life-is-a-mess feeling. But really I have great friends (LJ friends counted high on the list!), a wonderful family, an amazing husband, and two cute chinchillas that are looking at me lovingly at the moment (I'm pretty sure it's a ploy for raisins, but I shall ignore that and bask in the loving faces). And that's a lot more than a lot of people have. 

We decided as it was the one year when we were at home we'd live dangerously and go to Macy's at midnight...WOW...just wow...I kinda thought it'd be deserted, but boy was I wrong!...I think I made it about 30 min before I had an enormous GET ME OUT OF HERE urge. Clearly I'm not destined for crazy Black Friday shopping.

Today Rob and his brother went to a Flyers game downtown so I had a lovely quiet day. There was minimal thanksgiving mess to clean us as I was super careful to clean as we went yesterday, leaving me free to make some stays progress! I cranked up the Christmas Carols and got too it. I managed to squeak the interlinings out of some duck cloth I had on hand, which was AWESOME. I'd really like for this to be an all stash project and I was pretty sure I needed more interlining so huzzah! So far they're all cut out and I got the boning channels all marked on one half and I was standing pondering how the hell I was going to copy them exactly to the other side when Rob got home.

Now I am stuffed with leftover thanksgiving goodness, listening to Christmas music and about to dig into the pile of decorations boxes brought in from the car. 
robinsnest: (Default)
So I'm continuing in the planning portion of my stays.  I've decided to use the Diderot stays pattern from Corsets and Crinolines, my friend A made them recently and she's lent me her copy of the pattern so I'll just need to tweak rather then start from scratch. 

Now someone tell me if there's a reason why this won't work besides historical accuracy...I think I'm going to put a Victorian style busk down the center. After doing a Victorian dress it was driving me nuts how much longer it would take to put on my stays because I had to re-lace every flippin' time. Now it's possible that because my new stays won't be purchased they'll have spiral lacing and perhaps that's much faster, but still...someone talk me out of it?

I'm going to bone with my old standby duct-ties, my current stays have very light boning, I don't require an enormous amount of boning, so the fact that the Diderot pattern isn't fully boned is just perfect in my eyes.  

Now onto binding. I've used bias tape in the past, but I'd really like to try binding them in leather. I wonder if it would be easier to do and last longer? I've seen many pairs of period stays bound in leather. The problem is getting the leather. Can one buy strips of leather? 

stays

Oct. 23rd, 2011 07:48 pm
robinsnest: (Default)
Okay people lets talk stays. I have one pair that I've always worn for all things 16-18th century. I know horribly wrong but close enough for me to get away with it. But I've decided it's time for new stays. For several reasons.

1. I'm fat. My old stays are just not comfortable anymore. 

2. I'm going to be volunteering at a local historical site, dated to 1750, and I want to set a good example. It is a working farm, but they've got the "farm worker" look more than covered, pretty much everyone is in short gowns, and the family took several trips a year into Philadelphia for business so I'm aiming for what the lady of the house would have worn.

3. I have an occation to wear a francaise for the first time evah and I want nice comfy stays so I can look my bestest.


SO, what pattern have you used? 

And Straps vs strapless? What's the deal? Mine currently have straps..and I guess I'd say I like them...I'm prone to slouching so anything to pull my posture up seems smart. But I read a vague reference somewhere when I googled it that strapless stays were for working..so is that more in line with what I should be doing for the historic house? OR could make ones with straps and tie them loosely or tuck them in if I found i needed to do more worky things?

Boning?

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