more stays planning

[robinsnest]

So I'm continuing in the planning portion of my stays.  I've decided to use the Diderot stays pattern from Corsets and Crinolines, my friend A made them recently and she's lent me her copy of the pattern so I'll just need to tweak rather then start from scratch. 

Now someone tell me if there's a reason why this won't work besides historical accuracy...I think I'm going to put a Victorian style busk down the center. After doing a Victorian dress it was driving me nuts how much longer it would take to put on my stays because I had to re-lace every flippin' time. Now it's possible that because my new stays won't be purchased they'll have spiral lacing and perhaps that's much faster, but still...someone talk me out of it?

I'm going to bone with my old standby duct-ties, my current stays have very light boning, I don't require an enormous amount of boning, so the fact that the Diderot pattern isn't fully boned is just perfect in my eyes.  

Now onto binding. I've used bias tape in the past, but I'd really like to try binding them in leather. I wonder if it would be easier to do and last longer? I've seen many pairs of period stays bound in leather. The problem is getting the leather. Can one buy strips of leather? 

Comments

[isabelladangelo.livejournal.com]

I bought 3 yards of leather binding at Fort Fred a couple of years ago so, yes! One can buy strips of leather for binding.

[sewloud.livejournal.com]

well good to know it's possible. Although my Google Fu seems to be failing me. I'm seriously considering buying a thrift store leather jacket and cutting it up.

[isabelladangelo.livejournal.com]

Yeah, I haven't been able to find it online but I haven't been looking hard since I found it at Fort Fred either.

I probably should point out that busks make me cry. The stupid middle one always gets stuck and it takes me a good half hour to get out of the thing. This is why I've gone to buttons. Buttons are period for the Victorian era!

[brickhousewench.livejournal.com]

I was just about to poke you cause you haven't posted in a bit and I was worried about you.

Did you lose power with the storm? Hope things are going well for you!

[sewloud.livejournal.com]

We didn't lose power, I guess we were just far enough south. I'm okay. Trying to formulate a life plan, I think I have the long term sorted. Now I need to figure out what to do to pay the bills while I go back to school.

[mandie-rw.livejournal.com]

Re: the Victorian busk: You mean besides giving me a heart attack? ;) Hmm. I just went and inspected my stays vs. my 1869 corset, and I think you would be able to get away with a metal busk if you want. I've actually found that the bones (aka ties!) at the CF of all my stays have bent inward at the waist slightly, after some wear - fitting to the body more closely, and makes them more comfortable. The metal busk doesn't do that! That's really the only difference I could see.

Though I will put in a good word for spiral lacing - I don't think it takes very long at all! (Especially in the front where I can actually see it...)

[sewloud.livejournal.com]

Yeah I imagine spiral lacing may be significantly faster than the cross over lacing on my stays now. It just seems to take forever getting in and out of them for quick fittings.

[mandie-rw.livejournal.com]

Yes, it does take a few minutes...not-so-quick "quick" fittings! :P I'm still getting used to the metal busk, though, so it usually takes me longer to get in my 1869 corset than my stays! And I will throw in a good word for front and back lacing stays - definitely the most adjustable! Mine lace up both front and back. Even if it does take a few days to do all those eyelets...usually about 44-50. And I've made six pairs of stays. Because I'm insane apparently. *falls over*

[mre-awiwench.livejournal.com]

Burnley and trowbridge have leather for binding stays.

[sewloud.livejournal.com]

ooo thank you!

[blackcat452.livejournal.com]

I think silly sisters sells leather binding. And as for the busk, would you be open to front lacing? It's more period

[sewloud.livejournal.com]

The ones I have front lace, the annoying thing is that my IBS means I bloat A LOT sometimes (I really should test maternity wear theories sometimes as my clothing needs to be flexible size wise, but it's too depressing to think about ;-)) and since my current stays front lace, when I'm bloated I end up with a gap in the front, and somehow a gap in the back seems better than a gap in the front. I suppose I could make them lace in both places except that's A LOT of eyelets.

[hlwoods.livejournal.com]

It occurs to me, though, that with front lacing you can unlace yourself without hurting/overstretching anything.

If you dress slightly earlier period (and I'm not sure which period you prefer) the gapped lacing is a design feature. :)

[sewloud.livejournal.com]

You mean with a boned stomacher?

I cheat massively and wear the same pair of stays from 1600-1800, It started because I had one set but it's worked so well! Perhaps later I'll go back and make a nice pair of effigy stays, but for now I intend to wear them for both as the only 16th century things I usually do is an annual trip to the ren faire.