robinsnest: (Default)
It's a mutual loathing...I'm working away at setting sleeves the 18th century way which involves sewing the bottom half of the armscye then fitting the top over the shoulder...or in my case on the dress form, take the dress off try it on, take it off move pins, try on again, lather, rinse, repeat. I've gotten them to the point where it looks perfect on the dress form, and it fits wonderfully if I stand with my arms slightly out in that  quintessential 18th century pose..but if my arms are straight down I have wrinkles!! And I'm starting to think that's just the nature of it. Looking at extant dresses the sleeves DO seem to stick out a bit and not hang straight down. 

At THIS angle they're perfect 

Same as this:



So I'm starting to think that's just the nature of the beast? Silk taffeta isn't stretchy enough to be perfectly smooth in every angle, so you have to pick one and this is their favorite? If I made it perfectly fitted with my arms down I wouldn't be able to life them at all, and while you'd never wear this dress for manual labor you still have to lift your arms to get a fork to your mouth! 

I hate sleeve. 
robinsnest: (Default)
My first Biology quiz is tomorrow so I spent the morning studying and did do as much sewing as I could have. 

I pinned my mock up sleeve on and it seemed to have fit pretty well all things considered. I added several inches to the width of the sleeve as I've found that sleeve tiny before, but while it fit great at the top it was huge on the bottom and also far too long. Rob very nicely put sharpie dots on me where I pointed and I took it off and copied off a real pattern. and I *gulp* cut my sleeves out of silk and linen lining. I decided to finish the bottom hems before setting them, seemed simpler to not deal with the whole giant dress. And that's what I've been poking at on the couch tonight. 

Tomorrow after class I set these suckers...*crosses self and makes offering to the costume gods* 
robinsnest: (Default)
I had a really hard time getting myself going this morning, didn't feel great. Then I found out that [livejournal.com profile] kass_rants and Bob's awesome dog Sebastian passed. And you know, you wouldn't think  I'd be a sobbing mess over my ex boss' dog's dying, but dammit I spent a lot of quality time with those dogs! I can't say I was surprised to hear the time had come, he was an old man, but I certainly wasn't expecting to hear that today. Between that and an IBS flare I spent more of the afternoon watching TV than I probably should have.

But I did make some dress progress. I got the bodice side seams sewn, and I created a Frankenstein sleeve pattern. A Franken-sleeve. I started with the Simplicity 3637 sleeve which has the seam down the back, and looking at PoF and Costume Close-up the seam goes straight down the underarm so the pattern is almost symmetrical. So I traced off a copy of the Simplicity pattern cut it out and then cut off the extra from one side and taped it to the other. Then I compared it to the marquis.de sleeve pattern, which was actually a lot smaller than the simplicity one, but I have huge arms so I didn't scale down, I just borrowed the curves from it. 

I made a muslin and it appears like it's going to work...granted I need to do a fitting before I can really know that, and an IBS flare and a corset don't really go together. So I'm sitting watching hockey making another pair of baby booties for etsy.  I'll try to convince myself to try it all on tomorrow after class. 
robinsnest: (Default)
Okay I'm up to that part...sleeves...they're all nicely sewn together, ironed and ready to be put in.  Once the sleeves are done it's all downhill with hemming and making robings..but first I must put in the sleeves. Theoretically these won't be hard as they're pleated...but, you know these bastards have a way of making everything difficult.  If there is one thing I hate more than all else in sewing it's the blasted sleeves.

I'm starting a pool how many tries it will take. I'm guessing four, and since I'm not allowed to go to bed till they're done, a midnight bedtime for me.

Guesses?

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