side note

Feb. 28th, 2013 07:55 pm
robinsnest: (Tintype)
[personal profile] robinsnest
I was digging through the new Smithsonian Fashion Book, which I have to say has some really lovely pictures in it, and I found something that really threw me for a loop.

On page 144 they have goldish yellow colored Robe á la française. From the front it looks like I think of an anglaise. Wide robings, contrasting stomacher, open front showing a matching petticoat. But it's NOT over panniers. And they show it being worn two ways, one with a train the other polonaised up! I don't think I've ever seen a francaise not over pocket hoops, and I'm darn sure I've never seen one polonaised up. Part of me would think they were mis-informed, but it's the Smithsonian!

I ask because it's REALLY neat and I'd love to make a version someday. Perhaps for next years Francaise dinner weekend breakfast (as it's apparently becoming a weekend).

So great LJ oracle. Tell me. Have YOU seen either of these two things before?

Date: 2013-03-01 01:39 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bauhausfrau.livejournal.com
I've seen like what the KCI has above many times but always over pocket hoops or larger.

Date: 2013-03-01 01:47 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sewloud.livejournal.com
I have looked at that dress SO many times and never noticed it was a francaise.

But the one in the book as inner ties to pull it up..so weird.

Date: 2013-03-01 03:39 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jennylafleur.livejournal.com
I have seen Française pulled up like a polonaise (Jess's example is the first one that comes to mind). However everything I've seen, read or heard says they were always worn with some form of side hoop. Believe me I wanted that to not be the case but couldn't find evidence for it. *eyes demon pannier*

I also wouldn't take the Smithsonian’s word on styling just because they are the Smithsonian. I've seen multiple styling mistakes in the museum including the original Barbie doll outfit that my Mom also owns that had hat on backwards. And another with the bubble wig on wrong. Mom took the offenses quite personally which amused me but I so see her point that they did look stupid that way...

Date: 2013-03-01 03:43 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sewloud.livejournal.com
mmm yeah it's probably just wrong..although the hem looks remarkably even. But you're probably right. I'll bring the book to pass around at the francaise dinner for people's opinions.

Date: 2013-03-01 08:38 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] marquise-de-f.livejournal.com
What is this book??

And I've seen it once before in an old book.. or maybe a museum pic. Can't remember. But it was a Watteau back that was polonaised up. But it looked like it was more to bunch up the train into a walking length than for fashion. Perhaps their version of a skirt elevator. The dress looked like a wonky sort of hybrid.. but had a stomacher. Mishmash. Maybe it's one of those awkward transitional things, or perhaps women who couldn't afford a new dress trying to mod theirs into a current fashion?

Date: 2013-03-01 01:41 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] quincy134.livejournal.com
I have that book, but didn't take that in. I went back to look. Weird. Also a little odd is that the pleat in the center back is a box pleat, not an inverted box pleat. Maybe that was intentional so that it would lay nicer when polonaised up?

Date: 2013-03-01 01:59 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] heidilea.livejournal.com
I remember having a discussion with Hallie Larkin once, and she had seen later Francaise gowns (with an American Provence, mostly New England) that were made without room for side hoops or panniers.

Maybe it's something like that? I always thought the dead giveaway difference between an Anglaise and a Francaise is the latter has the loose-hanging pleats.

Date: 2013-03-01 02:55 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Could be it was someone's "old gown" made "new again" to fit more modern pannier-less styles? That happened a lot. I've seeen museums make fashion mistakes as well, and it always floored me that I, a dipshit housewife with zero credentials, would know something they did not.

Date: 2013-03-01 03:10 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
I wouldn't always trust museums. I once saw a corset in the V&A that was clearly supposed to be spiral laced, but had been cross laced, making the whole thing uneven and strained. >

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