robinsnest | regency stays (Reply)

Today I really took a hard look at my measurements and the measurements of the stays in Hunnisett and I'm pleased that they're not suuuuper far off. Of course I had to add some girth *sigh* but anyway I think I've gotten the pattern enlarged. So here are a few things I'm mulling over and would love feedback on.

1. By hand or by machine. I do really have time to do them by hand and I feel a serious itch to do so..but even if I make a muslin it's so hard to know if stays will work till they're...what 90% done?!? And when I lay these out with the last pair they look pretty damn similar so I'm not sure WHY the last ones were so epically bad and will this not help either. I don't know maybe the boning will make the difference?

2. Cording or not cording? It calls for horizontal cording under the bust, is this functional or decorative? I've certainly seen lots of stays without it but will it help avoid another stay melt down? I thought about emailing