robinsnest: (Default)
[personal profile] robinsnest
I'm planning to go to Bastille day with a few fabulous friends in chemise gowns. Anyone in the philly area or beyond is welcome! I've wanted a Chemise a la Reine for ages so I'm really pleased to have an excuse...I started doing a bit of research...and it's been a tad bit of a rabbit hole. I've now got a pinterest board of all the examples I've found...now I'm interested in written mentions. I'm trying to figure out in my head the difference between a Chemise a la Rein and a Gualle. I thought Chemise was a modern term but this fashion plate says Chemise a la rein on the bottom in what appears to be original type, but I suppose that could be wrong.



That being said I also don't speak french....[livejournal.com profile] hiraimi? Help!



After looking at a lot of Chemise gowns I'm sensing (and please correct me if this is wrong!) that the full sleeves with neck ruffle came first


And slowly evolved to have more fitted sleeves on it's way to becoming the round gown of the early regency?



The later ones I'm finding dated to post 1785 have fitted sleeves and no neck ruffle. I haven't found any examples dated pre-1785. Although there's a fair amount of overlap between the two styles.



Is the more tailored style a gualle as opposed to a Chemise a la Reine? I really like both styles but I think for a hot summer day the nice airy fluffy one sounds great. So I'm leaning towards the big easy sleeves.

Currently this is my favorite.






Most of the Chemise gowns I've been finding have very similar traits, but I did find a few "odd-balls" that I really enjoy.



Date: 2012-06-08 09:09 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] brickhousewench.livejournal.com
My French is pretty rusty, but roughly that fashion plate says:

Chemise a la Reine see from the back. This woman has around her shoulders a fichu mantelet [fichu mantle?], she is [wearing?] a flat hat decorated with a feather, the hair is [dressed?] in two ponytails, the belt is of black velvet.

Date: 2012-06-09 01:02 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sewloud.livejournal.com
thanks! your French is way better than my non-existent French!

Date: 2012-06-08 09:47 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ladyxjade.livejournal.com
I myself like the more fitted sleeves, but they're all lovely!

Date: 2012-06-09 01:02 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sewloud.livejournal.com
yeah but more fitted sleeves = harder to make :-p

Date: 2012-06-09 02:32 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ladyxjade.livejournal.com
no wonder I like them.....

Date: 2012-06-08 10:28 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] tayloropolis.livejournal.com
Chemise a la Reine is definitely a period term! It's pretty common in fashion plates!

Date: 2012-06-09 01:03 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sewloud.livejournal.com
so when does one see Gualle in fashion plates you're my total fashion plate guru.

Date: 2012-06-09 12:20 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] tayloropolis.livejournal.com
I've never seen the term "Gaulle" in fashion plates. The only place I've ever seen it in period is the this painting of Marie Antoinette http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:MA-Lebrun.jpg . I've seen this labelled as "Marie Antoinette in a Muslin Dress" "Marie Antoinette with a Rose" "Portrait of Marie Antoinette" and "Marie Antoinette en Gaulle" or "La Reine en Gaulle". I have NO IDEA which one is the actual title of this painting, since I haven't been able to track down the museum that holds it.

Date: 2012-06-08 10:31 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] madamekat.livejournal.com
A PURPLE CHEMISE A LA REINE!!!!! I am SO happy!

Date: 2012-06-09 01:04 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sewloud.livejournal.com
:-) There's a TEAL one too! and I found another black one.

Date: 2012-06-08 11:08 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] blackcat452.livejournal.com
Those cross front ones are awesome, I wonder how well that works in real life, I might have to try that.

Date: 2012-06-09 01:03 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sewloud.livejournal.com
I can't imagine HOW it works. what does the other side DO? get sewn down and pinned?

Date: 2012-06-09 04:19 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] blackcat452.livejournal.com
I'm detecting a bit of sarcasm there. I'm just saying, wrap dresses can be tricky to wear and the 18th century doesn't have the right shape for it. I wish there was a full length pic of one.

Date: 2012-06-09 04:20 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sewloud.livejournal.com
no completely no sarcasm. the drawstring neckline combined with wrap confuses the begeezus out of me.

Date: 2012-06-08 11:18 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] quincy134.livejournal.com
Ooohh--pretty inspiration photos!

I've wanted to go to Philly Bastille day in previous years. Maybe this is the year?

Date: 2012-06-09 01:04 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sewloud.livejournal.com
It would be awesome if you did! You're certainly welcome to crash here, although I'm not sure if Stephanie is staying here or at Kat's.

Date: 2012-06-11 03:15 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] quincy134.livejournal.com
Thanks for the offer! I can probably stay with my parents who live in Bryn Mawr for actual sleeping, but it would be helpful to coordinate on a place to get dressed/drive to the actual event together. I always get horribly lost around Philly.

Date: 2012-06-13 03:33 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sewloud.livejournal.com
you are certainly welcome to get ready here. We often end up with a getting ready/carpooling party. I live in Blue Bell for what it's worth :-)

Date: 2012-06-13 11:16 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] quincy134.livejournal.com
Cool, Blue Bell shouldn't be too hard for me to get to.

Date: 2012-06-09 05:32 am (UTC)
ext_482226: (Default)
From: [identity profile] mandie-rw.livejournal.com
I tend to call the more fitted style a gaulle, and the fluffier one a chemise a la reine, as you're doing, but I don't know if there was that distinction in period. Helpful for modern costumers though!

And yup, that evolution of the chemise gown is what I figure is going on, too...

Date: 2012-06-10 03:32 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sadievale.livejournal.com
Yay, these dresses are super-fun to wear, once you get used to the poofy insanity - can't wait to see yours and see you again! :)

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